Rural Tranquility

Lower Normandy, the Bocage, Manche and Calvados

  1. Lower Normandy is best known for the Normandy landings in 1944. Everywhere you go, you will see historic references to the invasion, and the British, Americans and Canadians are popular as a result. An enormous amount of damage was done as the allies advanced, and the locals are still quite bitter about the German occupation. Towns like Caen, St Lo and St Hilaire de Harcouet were totally destroyed, while Avranches, St Malo, Vire and many others were severely damaged. The Normandy beaches in the north are very evocative (Sword, Juno, Omaha) and worth visiting, especially on a cold, blustery day. Signs like "Objectif un port" are tourist routes commemorating the invasion. In particular, the Mulberry Harbour at Arromanches is an engineering masterpiece and there is a very interesting museum there. The peninsular from Cherbourg down to St Lo is known as the "Bocage", which means hedgerows. The abundance of hedgerows and ditches made the advance by the allies, even with tanks, extremely slow and provided a good defence for the retreating Germans.

    2. The many war cemeteries are moving, commemorating both World Wars and soldiers, sailors and airmen from both sides. The German cemetery at Orglandes on the way to Cherbourg is vast and beautifully kept. Private Harry Neave from Sixpenny Handley is buried in the allied cemetery at St Manvieu-Norrey near Bayeux, along with many comrades from the Dorset, Devonshire and Wiltshire Regiments.

    Avranches, which is the closest main town to the house, is where the Americans under General Paton finally broke through the German lines. He was able to force his way through to attack Paris from the South, whilst the rest of the allies attacked from the North and West. There is a memorial to him in Place Paton in Avranches, complete with a genuine Sherman Tank in the middle - pay your due respects !

  2. The Norman Conquest in 1066 is the other main historic event for which Normandy is famous. William the Conqueror, Duke of Normandy, came from Caen, the capital of Lower Normandy. He rescued Harold, the future King of England, from pirates in 1064, and they became good friends. They went on the rampage together, and captured several dukedoms in Brittany. In return for his rescue, Harold promised William (Guillaume) that when Edward the Confessor, the King of England, died, he would ensure that William succeeded to the throne. After the King's death in 1066, Harold did not keep his promise but instead declared himself King. William immediately raised a large army and navy, and invaded England to punish Harold. The rest is history and is commemorated in the mediaeval Bayeaux tapestry dating from the 11th century, which is well worth a visit.

  3. However, this minor setback has been reversed in recent times, and now it is the English who are invading Normandy! Everywhere you go, you will unfortunately encounter Brits. But the French really are not in the least bit resentful, and are always very friendly, providing you make an effort to speak some French; no-one speaks a word of English; why should they ?

  4. The storms of Christmas 1999 were far worse than the hurricane in England in 1987. They swept through causing untold damage, ripping roofs off houses, and devastating forests. Houses can still be seen without roofs, and the roofers had enough work for the next four years. At the house, a great swathe was cut through the woodlands down by the river tragically, but it is not so apparent now any more. The roof of the barn and the dairy was torn off, and had to be replaced.

  5. Normandy is also the principal region in France for dairy produce, milk, cream, cheese - Camembert and Président products. We are in the Département of La Manche (50), meaning Channel, but border closely onto Calvados (only a couple of miles to the East). This is the heart of apple country, like Somerset, and cider and calvados is sold everywhere - all the farmers have their own distillery. Each farmer is allowed to distil 10 litres per annum, a right, until recently, passed from generation to generation for hundreds of years, but sadly the law has been changed and the right of inheritance has ceased.

  6. The house is situated in a particularly lovely hilly area, very like North Dorset and Devon. Walks in the woods and along the river are wonderful, and cycling, though hard going at times, is highly recommended. The sea is only 15 miles away, and you can see le Mont St Michel from our road.

  7. The most famous attraction is of course le Mont St Michel. The Normans are very proud that le Mont St Michel is just inside Normandy, on the border with Brittany. It is a spectacle, an island in the bay with a cathedral in the middle. Although inundated with tourists - more than 3 million per annum - it is actually well worth the visit, especially the abbey at the top (allow at least three hours). You can also follow the pilgrims' route by foot across the bay from Avranches. Because of the danger of quicksand, you have to use a guide (£5 per head) but it is highly recommended, taking about two hours each way. You can also go on horseback. The tourist office by the car park in the centre of Avranches has all the details, as there are several crossing points.

  8. The Cotentin peninsular around Cherbourg is like the Dorset coast with spectacular cliff faces. On the other coast, Barfleur and St Vast La Hougue are romantic fishing villages.

  9. Hambye Abbey is also an interesting ruin, with wonderful walks around La Baleine.

  10. The Valley of the River See has some spectacular scenery, especially along the back roads between Brouains / Sourdeval and the Moulin de la See, near Gathémo and St Michel de Montjoie, so called because it is the first point from which pilgrims arriving from Paris could get a glimpse of le Mont St Michel but it would have to be on a very clear day and with binoculars.

  11. The mediaeval city of Domfront was undamaged during the War, despite being the HQ of the SS. It is an enchanting small town, dominated by the view of the church. This building is most unusual for reasons which you must discover for yourself !

  12. The Suisse Normande (Normandy's version of Switzerland) is an area of outstanding natural beauty, about an hour's drive from the house, between Clécy and Thury-Harcourt, to the North East via Flers.

  13. Similarly, the Loire valley, one of the principle wine growing regions of France, is about two hours drive south and not too far for a day's excursion - go to Fougères > La Flèche > Saumur > Condé and back via Angers.

  14. And the Brittany coast is superb. Even just a trip to St Malo with its walled city, Dinard and Dinan makes a good day out. We like to drive to Roscoff and take the crossing back to Plymouth from there whenever we can.

    15. Places of interest

    Avranches Nearest main town. Attractive, lots of shops. Fabulous views of le Mont St Michel from the park in front of the Sous Préfacture. Castle. Tourist office.
    Bayeux Famous Bayeux tapestry. Well worth a visit on the way back to Cherbourg to catch the ferry. The story of William the Conqueror.
    Brécey Nearest town. Coccinelle supermarket at the bottom of the square. Cheapest petrol. Market on Friday morning, well worth a visit. Plenty of boulangeries, patisseries, charcuterie.
    Clécy The centre of the Suisse Normande
    Coulouvray Boisbenâtre The neighbouring village to the house and the back road to Villedieu. Nice bike rides, but hard work. Turn right out of the farm road. At the cross roads after a mile, turn left. Turn left at the next cross roads and continue to Les Hauts to St Laurent de Cuves. Alternatively, turn right into "Rue d'Etang" which will take you to a mill pond.Alternatively again, at the first cross roads, turn right and walk along the lane and farm tracks, eventually circling back left to where you started.
    Coutances Spectacular view of Coutances Cathedral as you approach from the South.
    Dinan Brittany, near St Malo. Old mediaeval town.
    Domfront HQ of the SS during the second World War.
    Flers Road to Suisse Normand
    Fougeres Interesting town
    Granville Fashionable seaside resort for Parisiennes. The area around the church up on the hill is nice.
    Hambye Abbey Very old mediaeval abbey in glorious countryside and well worth a visit
    Jullouville Sea bathing
    La Baleine Close to Hambye Abbey with spectacular countryside and hills
    le Mont St Michel Island cathedral in the bay joined by a causeway which floods at high tide. Impressive but a tourist trap.
    Moulin de Jean Wonderful old mill country restaurant. 3 course haute cuisine meal for £17. Turn left out of the farm road, go straight cross the main Brécey > St Pois road. Keep going for about 3 miles until you reach the village of Cuves (not to be confused with St Laurent de Cuves). Turn left and take first turning (D48) on the left back towards St Pois. The Moulin de Jean is about a mile on the right. To reserve, telephone 02 33 48 39 29 and speak to Gaetin (he speaks English).
    Normandy Beaches Omaha, Sword, Juno. Exhibitions and just wide, open sand beaches with no protection whatsoever. Very humbling.
    St Malo Beautiful old walled city, badly damaged in the war but fully restored. It was from here that Jacques Cartier set out to settle French North America, from Quebec in Canada down the Mississippi to New Orleans.
    St Sever Small country town - nice drive through the St Sever Forest, which suffered much damage during the storms.
    Villedieu les Poelles Poelle means cooking pot in French. This is the centre of copper and you can visit the foundries to see bells being cast. Quite attractive.
    Vire Larger town with plenty of shops. Destroyed during the war but re-built tastefully.